torstai 10. tammikuuta 2013

Girard-Perregaux high-end Tourbillon watch


 Girard-Perregauxin historia alkoi vuonna 1791, kun Jean-Francois Bautte aloitti kellonvalmistuksen Genevessä. Tämä vasta 19-vuotias lahjakkuus sai pian huomiota osakseen ja hänen kellojaan käytettiin lukuisissa Euroopan hoveissa. Kellosepän taitojensa lisäksi Jean-Francois oli myös taitava liike- ja teollisuusmies, ja hänen yrityksensä kukoisti

Jean-Francois Bautte

 Valitettavasti Jean-Francoisilla ei eläkeiän koittaessa ollut luonnollisia seuraajia yritykselleen. Ongelman ratkaisi sulautuminen toisen kellonvalmistajan kanssa. Vuonna 1854 Constantin Girard nai Marie Perregauxin, ja koska molemmat tulivat kelloseppä-perheistä, oli vain luonnollista että he aloittivat yhteisen yrityksen. Girard-Perregaux perustettiin vuonna 1856.

Constantin Girard oli menestyksekäs kelloseppä ja hänen maineensa levisi Euroopassa ja amerikkalaisissa siirtomaissa. Yksi hänen kuuluisimmista kelloista on Tourbillon Sous Trois Points d'Or - taskukello, joka voitti kaksi kultamitalia Pariisin maailmannäyttelyssä vuosina 1867 ja 1889.

Vuonna 1880 Girard-Perregaux oli ensimmäinen valmistaja maailmassa, joka aloitti rannekellojen massatuotannon. Vaikka muutamia taskukelloja oli jo muokattu myös ranteessa pidettäviksi, Girard-Perregaux oli ensimmäinen rannekellojen sarjatuottaja.

Girard-Perregaux on kehittänyt useita ainutlaatuisia koneistoja, mutta on erityisen kuuluisa korkeafrekvenssisestä, mekaanisesta, Gyromatic-kellostaan. Girard-Perregaux on myös tuottanut 23.768 hertsin kvartsikellon.

Girard-Perregaux Vintage 1945

Girard-Perregaux has a number of timeless looking watches with the 1945 being among them. This restyled Vintage 1945 model watch is a triumph of a bygone era. Don't knock the 32mm x 32mm size of the square watch until you wear one. It sits small by today's standards, but I think you'll come to appreciate it. The 18k rose gold case blends with the honey alligator strap so nicely. It is also available in steel with a black dial.

New to the case are the "godrons." These are rib shaped areas that wrap around the corners of the watch. They mark the space between the case and the sharply angled lugs. Inside the watch is a automatic Girard-Perregaux GP3300 calibre movement viewable through a sapphire caseback window. The dial features applied gold hour markers and dauphine hands, as well as central guilloche engraving. The nicely placed date window sits between 1 and 2 o'clock while the prominent subsidiary seconds dial sit at 9 o'clock. A nicely in-set crown rounds out this beautiful little number. 

Girard-Perregaux 1966 

Watch lovers in Japan voted the Girard-Perregaux 1966 Full Calendar as the watch of the year in Tokyo recently. The result signals a distinct love of classic styles with desirable complications. The layout of this retro styled calendar watch cannot be solely attributed to Girard-Perregaux, as it has been seen in countless luxury creations. Regardless. this interpretation of particularly clean. The annual calendar's day and month windows are faceted and subtle, while the date dial with moonphase is effective and clean. A full seven complications are available at a glance, but with an almost minimal, uncluttered look.

The 18k rose gold 40mm wide case is a thin 10.7mm high, while the Girard-Perregaux GP0330M0 movement is an automatic, making this watch fall into the thin watch range. It looks dashing with an alligator strap, just as it did in 1966. The award by Tokyo's "Sekai no ude tokei" (World Wrist Watch) magazine is not the first time this style has been appreciated. Ian Fleming's James Bond "From Russia With Love" novel had the villain wearing the original version of this watch that was released in 1966 as described by Fleming in the book.

In 1791, watchmaker and goldsmith Jean-François Bautte signed his first watches. He created a manufacturing company in Geneva grouping, for the first time ever, all the watch making facets of that time, which meant starting from the engineering of the watch all the way to the final hand assembly and hand polishing of each watch. In 1852, the watchmaker Constant Girard founded the Girard & Cie Firm in La Chaux-de-Fonds. He, then, married Marie Perregaux and the Girard-Perregaux Manufacture was born in 1856. In 1906, Constant Girard-Gallet, who took over control of the Manufacturer from his father, took over the Bautte House and merged it with Girard-Perregaux & Cie. Since then, the brand has pursued its activities by reinforcing from the 1980s its position in the domain of prestigious mechanical watches, Haute Horlogerie, under the lead of the Macaluso family. In 2011, Sowind Group, the holding incorporating Girard-Perregaux, became a subsidiary of PPR.

The Manufacture has approximately 80 patents in the watch-making domain and is the originator of many innovative concepts.

    1880: Constant Girard produced the first ever major commercial production of a wristwatch, made for German naval officers and ordered by German Kaiser Wilhelm I for his German naval officers. Two-thousand such watches were ordered and produced, which represents the first important commercialization of wristwatches.

Girard-Perregaux 1966 

    1965: Girard-Perregaux designed the first mechanic movement at high frequency, at which the balancer beats at 36,000 vibrations/hour: the Gyromatic HF.

    1967: Girard-Perregaux receives the Centenary Award from the Astronomical Observatory de Neuchatel in recognition of the accomplishments of the Manufacture generally, and specifically for the Observatory Chronometer wristwatch that used the Gyromatic HF movement

Girard-Perregaux 1970

    1970: Girard-Perregaux presents its first wristwatch to the world to be equipped with a quartz movement and the following year a second one which vibrates at 32,768 hertz, the frequency remaining the universal standard for quartz watches today.

    2008: The brand presents a constant force escapement at SIHH (International Show of High-End Watch making), distinguishing itself from all the other known escapements to this day.

It’s the emblematic model of Girard-Perregaux. In 1884, Constant Girard submitted to the United States Patent Office a patent of the design of the movement “Tourbillon with three gold bridges.” The three bridges, now the mobiles of the movement, were redesigned in the form of arrows and placed parallel to each other. The movement was no longer just a functional and technical element, but it also became an element of design in every way. In 1889, the Tourbillon with three gold bridges was awarded a gold medal at the Universal Exposition of Paris. In 1980, Girard-Perregaux decided to make 20 pieces to conform to the original of 1889: 1500 hours of work were necessary to create the first one. Since then, the Tourbillon with three gold bridges is offered in different versions, and is sometimes associated with other watchmakers’ complications.

Main models

Out of the high-end watch collection, the most well known watches of Girard-Perregaux are: Vintage 1945 (with a rectangular case and a design inspired by an Art Deco style watch dating back to 1945), (standing for worldwide time-control, this collection displays 24 time zones on the dial), Girard-Perregaux 1966, Laureato Evo³, and the Cat’s Eye (from the feminine line).

Girard-Perregaux is also famed for its signature complication piece: the Bi-Axial Tourbillon; it has released this complication in a number of limited edition watches, including the 2012 release of the Bi-Axial Tourbillon DLC Titanium wristwatch which renovated the trend in line with modern titanium cases.

Girard-Perregaux have recently introduced new models in both eth Vintage 1945 and 1966 for 2012, In respect of the 1966 they have introduced a new Girard-Perregaux 1966 Full Calendar and a 1966 Chronograph which has been highlighted as a new grand classic by girard-perregaux themselves. This 1966 is a slightly larger faced model than previously issued by the watchmaker at 42mm and may be a sign of the changing demands upon watchmakers by the watch enthusiast community.

As for the Vintage 1945 its back with its three rose gold bridges and rectangular case design. The Vintage 1945 is powered by the Girard-Perregaux 9600-0019, Mechanical self-winding movement an all inhouse movement.

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